If you've shopped for gemstone jewelry, you've probably seen descriptions like A, AA, AAA, or even "premium AAA quality." And if you're anything like me, your first thought was pretty simple: more A's must mean a better gemstone.
That's certainly what it sounds like.
But here's something I think every woman shopping for gemstone jewelry deserves to know. Gemstone quality isn't quite that simple, and you don't need a gemology degree to understand it.
When I started working more seriously with gemstones for The Always Busy Mama, I wanted to know exactly what I was buying. If I was going to tell you a piece used AA or AAA natural gemstones, I wanted to understand what that meant, and I wanted you to understand it too.
So consider this your plain-English guide to what's actually behind the beads.
Start With Color
Color is the first clue, and the easiest one for beginners. The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) considers color the most important quality factor for most colored gemstones.
Higher-quality stones tend to have:
- Rich, even color
- A consistent tone that isn't washed out or too dark
- A natural depth that feels alive
- Little to no patchiness
Lower-quality stones often look dull, cloudy, faded, or uneven.
A good Amethyst has a deep, velvety purple. High-quality Aquamarine shows that soft, icy blue, not greenish or murky. A good Emerald has a lively green instead of a grayish one. And Citrine at its best glows with a warm, honey-gold tone.
If the color speaks clearly, the stone usually does too.
Look at Clarity (and Don't Fear Every Inclusion)
Clarity is about the natural markings inside a stone, called inclusions. An inclusion is something you can see inside the gemstone that formed as it grew in the earth. Almost every natural gemstone has some.
In general, higher-quality stones have fewer visible inclusions, which lets more light through and gives them more glow. If you can see distracting cracks, white streaks, or muddy spots with the naked eye, the quality probably isn't high.
But inclusions aren't automatically a bad thing.
Some stones are expected to have them. Emeralds almost always do, and a completely flawless Emerald is extremely rare and very expensive. Natural inclusions can even help show that a stone is genuine rather than synthetic. In stones like Labradorite, Black Tourmaline, and Rutilated Quartz, the markings are part of the beauty. What you're looking for is inclusions that feel natural and evenly spread, not a stone that looks cloudy everywhere.
Notice the Cut, Shape and Polish
Even a beautiful gemstone can look dull if it's poorly cut. A well-cut stone reflects light evenly and brings out its color, whether it's faceted, smooth, round, or organically shaped. Two stones of the same type, size, and color can look completely different because of how they were cut.
Polish matters too. A well-polished stone has a smooth surface, a soft glow even in natural light, and no visible scratches. A poorly polished one can look matte, rough, or scratched when it shouldn't.
Check the Consistency
This is the one most people never think about, and it's huge for beaded jewelry like bracelets and necklaces.
Higher-quality strands are matched for color, size, tone, and finish. The beads are evenly shaped, smoothly drilled, and uniform. Lower-quality strands can vary a lot from bead to bead, with lumpy shapes, mixed sizes, and rough drill holes. That affects how the piece looks and how comfortable it is to wear.
Here's a small tip I love: pick the piece up. Real, solid gemstones usually feel substantial in your hand. Plastic imitations tend to feel light.
Ask About Treatments
Many gemstones on the market are dyed to look more vibrant. Some treatments are normal in the industry, but heavily dyed stones can bleed color, fade, or look artificial.
I avoid treated stones unless I specifically tell you a stone is treated. Your jewelry should keep its beauty with wear, not lose it.
What A, AA and AAA Actually Mean
Here's where things get interesting. Unlike diamonds, colored gemstones don't have one universally accepted grading system. GIA explains that individual companies may create their own A, AA, and AAA descriptions to tell apart the stones they sell.
That means "AAA" from one supplier isn't necessarily judged by the same standard as "AAA" somewhere else.
It doesn't make the grades meaningless. Within one supplier, they're a helpful guide. Generally:
- A: more affordable, often paler, with more visible inclusions or less consistency
- AA: good color, mostly uniform, some inclusions
- AAA: stronger color, better clarity, more consistency, fewer visible inclusions
A lower grade isn't "bad." It may just mean softer color or more natural character, and sometimes that's exactly the look someone wants.
So is AAA better than AA? Within the same supplier, it usually means that supplier rates the stone higher. Across the whole industry, the letters alone aren't enough to tell you which stone is better.
Why I Still Talk About AA and AAA
Because I think transparency matters.
When I'm sourcing gemstones for The Always Busy Mama, I'm not looking for the cheapest stone I can put in a piece. I mostly source stones that my suppliers classify in their AA and AAA ranges, because those grades help me compare what's available.
But I want to be clear: I'm not claiming any stone has a universal AAA certification. That doesn't exist for colored gemstones. The grade is one tool. The final decision still comes down to the stone itself, its color, clarity, cut, and how it will look in a finished piece.
Natural Stones Aren't Supposed to Match Perfectly
We're so used to buying things that look identical that it's easy to forget gemstones came from the earth.
Natural stones can differ slightly in color, pattern, transparency, and inclusions. You'll notice it most in stones like Tourmaline, Labradorite, Moonstone, and Moss Agate, where variation is part of the beauty.
Those differences don't mean you got a lower-quality stone. Sometimes they just mean you got your stone. No one else will have one exactly like it.
You Don't Need to Be a Gemologist
Learning hue, tone, saturation, and treatments is my job, so I can make thoughtful choices about what goes into your jewelry.
Your job is simpler. Look at the stone. Look at the color and the craftsmanship. Read what the seller tells you about it. And buy from someone you trust to be honest about what you're getting.
Then choose something that feels like you. Maybe it's your child's birthstone. Maybe it's a stone tied to a season you're living in right now. Maybe you just think it's beautiful.
Quality matters. I believe that deeply.
But meaning matters too.
The best gemstone isn't always the one with the most A's next to its name. It's the one you'll reach for again and again because it means something to you. When you're ready, you can explore birthstone jewelry here.